Fashion Week in Milan Spotlights Size Diversity
Despite ongoing discussions about size diversity in the fashion industry, Milan Fashion Week showcased little evidence of real evolution.
Ferragamo's Free Spirit
Maximilian Davis' Ferragamo collection showcased oversized masculine woolen overcoats paired with transparent embroidered dresses, creating a balance between concealment and revealment. Inspired by the 1920s Prohibition era, Davis drew parallels between using clothing as a form of hiding and the concept of freedom.
Shoulder-broadening wool coats and masculine silhouettes paid homage to Joan Crawford and Greta Garbo, while scalloped sequin dresses and draped fringe added a contemporary twist. Full-cover looks without pants were paired with woolen tights, and knit mini-dresses were elevated with hip boots. Footwear featured heels concealed beneath feathers.
Men were covered in leather from head to toe, with thigh-high fishermen boots and gloves creating a bold statement. Flat-pocket shorts with cropped knitwear allowed for leg exposure, symbolizing the need for liberation.
Dolce & Gabbana Formal Sexiness
Dolce & Gabbana's collection exuded sexiness by combining tuxedo tailoring with lingerie-inspired pieces. Cropped tuxedo jackets revealed lacy bras, and sheer sarong skirts tied in satin bows showcased lace panties. The mostly black collection was accessorized with stiletto heels and felt berets with netting, bringing a touch of revealing elegance to the runway.
Naomi Campbell made a memorable closing appearance, wearing layered lace bras, a front-slit sarong, and fetish leather gloves. The collection empowered models to embrace their sensuality and celebrate their bodies.
Bottega Veneta's Message of Hope
Matthieu Blazy's Bottega Veneta collection aimed to convey a message of hope in troubled times. The designer focused on textiles and volumes, stripping away artifice to create garments that symbolized resilience.
Optical illusions were created through arch-shaped shoulders on overcoats and graffiti-like prints on dresses. The collection featured the brand's trademark intreccio technique, which added a decorative touch to the textiles. Blazy's final looks expressed hope through yellow and black thread-textured dresses separated by a gray wool coat, symbolizing fire, coal, and ash.
The showroom was decorated with flowering glass cacti, further emphasizing the theme of hope in the face of adversity.
Bally Refined
Simone Bellotti's second collection for Bally brought youthful energy to the Swiss fashion house. Loden coats in various styles showcased modern silhouettes and revealed furry layers for an urban edge. Office looks were given a youthful twist with high-waisted skirts, while leather skirts and bags were adorned with silver charms.
The collection connected with Swiss culture by incorporating mini cowbells as accessories, creating a charming and distinctive touch. Bellotti successfully blended the brand's 170-year heritage with contemporary fashion sensibilities.
