Furry Trims and Nosy Neighbors: How London Fashion Week Turned 40
Burberry, JW Anderson, Erdem and Simone Rocha showcased British design talent as London Fashion Week celebrated its 40th anniversary.
London Fashion Week Turns 40
London Fashion Week recently celebrated its 40th anniversary with a showcase of British design talent. Designers like Burberry, JW Anderson, Erdem, and Simone Rocha flew the flag for British fashion with their stunning collections. This milestone anniversary came at a time of reflection for the fashion industry, with concerns about the impact of a slowing luxury market and the rise of luxury groups based in Paris and Milan. However, amidst these challenges, London Fashion Week still managed to deliver stunning clothes from established and emerging designers.
A New 'It' Color Reigns
One standout trend of London Fashion Week was the emergence of a new 'it' color. Instead of the traditional red that dominated previous seasons, designers showcased a deeper palette ranging from burgundy to oxblood. Roksanda, Emilia Wickstead, Molly Goddard, and Chet Lo all embraced this trend in their collections, offering sleek and glamorous designs in shades of ruby. The new color choice exuded wealth, status, and power, bringing a sense of sophistication to the runway.
Daniel Lee's High-Stakes Show
The pressure was on for Burberry's chief creative officer, Daniel Lee, as he presented his third collection for the brand. After receiving mixed reviews for his previous collections, Lee had to deliver a show that would impress both critics and consumers. The runway show featured a star-studded lineup of British supermodels, showcasing outerwear in cozy yet stylish designs. With a nod to Burberry's glory days, the collection aimed to recapture the feel-good spirit that made the brand desirable. Only time will tell if Lee's efforts will revive Burberry's fortunes.
Stars Shine on the Front Row
London Fashion Week attracted stars from the screen and stage, thanks to the coinciding BAFTA Film Awards. Rosamund Pike, Kristin Scott Thomas, and Joanna Lumley were among the A-listers spotted on the front row. Some even took to the runway themselves, adding excitement to the shows. British Vogue and Tiffany & Company hosted a BAFTA after-party that brought together homegrown talents like Emily Blunt and Chioma Nnadi. The presence of these stars added a touch of glamour to the fashion week festivities.
Glamor Takes Center Stage
While grungy streetwear has typically been associated with London Fashion Week, this season saw a shift towards glamorous and sophisticated looks. Designers like Erdem, Richard Quinn, and Marco Capaldo of 16Arlington presented sumptuous draped dresses, shimmering evening pieces, and timeless couture-like creations. The collections showcased opulence and elegance, providing options for those who prefer dressing up over dressing down. This shift in style demonstrated the versatility and adaptability of London's fashion scene.
Unconventional Venues and Imaginative Designs
London Fashion Week also stood out for its choice of venues and imaginative designs. Dilara Findikoglu returned triumphantly after canceling her show last season, presenting a sexually charged collection that challenged toxic masculinity. Simone Rocha closed her triptych with a collection inspired by Queen Victoria's mourning attire. Presented in a 12th-century church, the collection featured crystal-embellished corsetry, translucent organza tailoring, and rhinestone-encrusted Crocs. These unconventional shows added an element of surprise and creativity to London Fashion Week.
