New Designers Make a Splash at Milan Fashion Week
Designers are showcasing their talents at Milan Fashion Week as they debut their collections for new fashion houses. From Moschino to Tod's, these designers are leaving a lasting impression with their unique visions.
Adrian Appiolaza's Dreamy Collection for Moschino
Adrian Appiolaza made his debut as Moschino's creative director during Milan Fashion Week, just a month and a half after his appointment. Despite the limited time, Appiolaza created a collection that didn't feel overthought. He drew inspiration from the fashion house's founder, Franco Moschino, blending subversion and playfulness into his designs.
Appiolaza's collection featured dreamy looks, with garments that appeared as if they were roused from sleep. The collection showcased surreal elements, like newspaper boat hats and turbans made from shirt sleeves. Appiolaza also incorporated unconventional accessories, such as men's ties, pearl strands, and a golden bowtie worn as a necklace.
The feminine silhouette was defined by ruffles, bustles, and slip dresses, contrasted with menswear-inspired pieces like vests, oversized shirts, and trousers. Appiolaza aimed to convey Franco's universe and tell a story through his collection. He also made a direct statement about peace with garments emblazoned with peace signs and the word PEACE written in capitals.
Matteo Tamburini's Journey with Tod's
Matteo Tamburini showcased his first collection for Tod's during Milan Fashion Week. The collection drew inspiration from Milan's dynamism, with the city's vintage orange trams serving as a backdrop. Key elements of the collection included the brand's daytime workhorse Di Bag and the trademark driving moccasin.
Tamburini's monochrome collection featured rich leather dresses, skirts, and overcoats. Layered and twisting knitwear added coziness to the looks. Oversized trenches, layered shirts, cuffed trousers, and slightly enlarged jacket shoulders contributed to the collection's aesthetic. Soft and body-molding bags, as well as oblong-buckled belts, were also highlighted in Tamburini's designs.
The collection aimed to reflect the duality of Milan, capturing both its bourgeois and industrial power. Tod's group recently announced an operation to delist the company, with chairman Diego Della Valle expressing confidence in the brand's future as a family business.
Walter Chiapponi's Romantic Rebel Collection for Blumarine
Walter Chiapponi took Blumarine back to its romantic rebel days of the 1990s for his debut collection. The collection featured an array of female codes, including bows, lace, animal prints, and florals. Chiapponi aimed to capture the emotion and femininity of the Blumarine girl in his designs.
The collection showcased disheveled looks that evoked a time-worn feel, with animal print coats, silken shorts, and floral pumps. Soft pastel knits and floret applique tops and dresses added a touch of elegance. Boudoir looks were also included, with a velour slip dress and black lace dress with animal print tights.
Chiapponi's collection celebrated the spirit of the city, embodying the essence of Blumarine. Front-row guests included notable figures such as Chinese actor Xiao Zhan, U.S. actor Larsen Thompson, and South Korean singer Jungwoo.
