The Great Indian Thali Cookbook: A Mild and Creamy Kerala Vegetable Stew

Introducing Kerala Ishtu: A Unique and Creamy Vegetable Stew

When you think of Indian curry, you probably envision rich, orangey-red gravies or thick, green sauces. However, if you venture south to Kerala, you'll discover a completely different stew called ishtu. Ishtu is a mild, creamy, and pale dish made with seasonal vegetables and just a touch of spices. It's a heartwarming dish that can be prepared in under 30 minutes and is commonly found in both home kitchens and Kerala cuisine restaurants.

Kerala has a long history of spice cultivation and has attracted cultural influences from all over the world. The British stew, which has been adapted to suit Indian tastes, often features meat and is thickened using yogurt or ghee. In contrast, the Kerala ishtu can be made with or without meat, using either beef or lamb or a variety of vegetables. What sets it apart is the unique flavor and richness it derives from coconut milk.

In her book The Great Indian Thali: Seasonal Vegetarian Wholesomeness, Dr. Nandita Iyer, a food writer, and doctor, shares a recipe for a vegetarian Kerala ishtu. This cookbook celebrates the concept of the thali, a platter or plate that combines multiple dishes to create a wholesome meal. Iyer presents 80 recipes in her book, each categorized by season, to encourage the use of fresh, local ingredients.

Embracing the Diversity of Indian Cuisine

The Great Indian Thali cookbook highlights the importance of embracing the diversity of Indian cuisine. Iyer believes that Indian food has been homogenized, with dishes from Punjab often representing vegetarian Indian cuisine globally. She emphasizes the need for people to recognize that Indian food varies from region to region, depending on local produce and tastes.

Iyer explains, "India boasts incredible biodiversity in terms of microclimates and cultures. Every 50 kilometers, you encounter a change in language, food, and even variations in the same dish. This diversity enriches our lives, but it often goes unappreciated. If we fail to incorporate this richness into our lives, they will become bland, like eating food with just salt and pepper."

To showcase the uniqueness of different regions, Iyer painstakingly sources and uses specific local and seasonal vegetables, spices, and other ingredients in her recipes. The Kerala ishtu recipe, for example, is simple and quick to prepare, allowing you to utilize the vegetables in your refrigerator along with some tofu for added protein. With just a few spices and coconut milk, this dish offers a rich flavor profile and can be enjoyed with sourdough toast or rice.

Recipe: Kerala Vegetable Stew

If you're intrigued by the Kerala ishtu and want to give it a try, here's a recipe from Nandita Iyer's book:

Ingredients:

- 2 tbsp coconut oil

- 2 green cardamoms

- 3 to 4 cloves

- 1 cinnamon stick (2½cm/1in)

- 5 to 6 black peppercorns

- 20g ginger, peeled and julienned

- 2 sprigs curry leaves

- 1 large onion, peeled and sliced

- 1 large carrot, peeled and diced

- 2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced

- ½ cup (60g) green peas

- 12 to 14 green beans, julienned

- 1½ tsp salt

- ½ tsp white pepper powder (optional)

- 400ml (13½oz) coconut milk

- 2 green chillies, slit

Method:

1. In a large pan, heat 1 tbsp of coconut oil over medium heat. Add the whole spices and fry for 30 seconds until aromatic. Add half the julienned ginger and one sprig of curry leaves. Fry until the curry leaves turn bright green. Stir in the sliced onion and fry over medium heat for 3-4 minutes until it softens a bit.

2. Mix in the remaining vegetables and sauté for a few seconds. Add in ½ cup of water, the salt, and the white pepper. Cook for 6-8 minutes, until the vegetables turn slightly soft but not mushy (they should retain some crunch).

3. Add in the coconut milk, green chillies, and the remaining ginger. Bring to a gentle simmer. Take the pan off the heat. Add a final layer of flavor with the remaining 1 tbsp of coconut oil and sprig of curry leaves. Serve hot with plain rice, lacy aapams, or string hoppers.